The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is one of the richest, deepest 2009 Rossi I have encountered. Dark cherries in liqueur and sweet spices come together nicely in this round, enveloping Rosso. There is plenty of structure underneath as this seamless wine powers through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. I have been an admirer of Cupano for many years, but a recent visit was my first. It won’t be my last. This tiny winery sits in one of the most strikingly beautiful, picturesque spots in all of Montalcino, with breathtaking views in all directions. Ornella and Lionel Cousin farm their vineyards biodynamically. Work in the cellar is equally non-interventionalist. The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. Cupano favors a flashy, up-front style with generous fruit and at times lavish oak. As good as the wines are young, the real surprise is just how well they develop in bottle.Importer: Tosco Wines Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 232-7400