Gorgeous harmony and depth characterize this wine, which may well be the best Vino Nobile Riserva of the 2004 vintage. Aromas include black currant, spice, leather and tobacco and work seamlessly together, without any single element overwhelming the other. Elegance and balance also distinguish the mouth: It has chewy, dense tannins and good length on the close.——M.L.(6/1/2008)—— 92
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