Domaine Dirler-Cade Riesling Saering, Alsace Grand Cru, France

凱德酒莊塞潤(rùn)雷司令半干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3980

Dirlers’ 2008 Riesling Saering delightfully and dazzlingly captures a shimmering sense of interaction between myriad somehow crystalline manifestations of things mineral and apple, white peach, and grapefruit. Scintillating, musky, pungent scents of iris and narcissus waft across the palate, while tart notes of huckleberry and fruit pit add further counterpoint in a long, saliva-inducing finish. This bright, refined, even rapier Riesling ought to continue to refresh and fascinate for 15 or more years. As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Like this year's Belzbrunnen bottling - and unlike their 2005 vintage counterparts - Dirler's 2007 Riesling Saering is truly dry. A delightful combination of fresh ginger, lime, grapefruit, chalk dust and salt runs from aroma to finish, emphasizing the rather Muscat-like tendencies that occasionally accrue to Riesling of its vintage, and delivering a combination of density, subtle oiliness, and refreshment (at 13% alcohol, incidentally), invigoration and grip that auger well for 15 or more years of very active life. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185