Domaine Albert Boxler Riesling Brand K

點擊次數(shù)：2038

The 2008 Riesling Brand Kirchberg (or “K”) introduces a hint of sweetness into Boxler’s Riesling collection of this vintage, which nicely supports the more effusive, pungent, yet almost cloud-like floral perfume of honeysuckle and diverse hedge flowers that wafts from the tip of this wine’s nose to that of its long, lithe tail. Tangerine and lime, white peach and nut oils inform a creamy yet buoyant and juicy palate, with a hint of honey pointing toward the bit of noble botrytis present in this fruit. This may not possess quite the striking delicacy and dynamics of the “regular” Brand, but its luscious fruit generosity and perfumed intensity are utterly compelling. Jean Boxler predicts significant added complexity within a few years and this ought to be worth following for the better part of two decades. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Boxler’s 2004 Riesling Brand K is from 60 year-old vines in the Kirchberg section which he occasionally (as also in 2002) segregates. Ripe peach, orange zest, and a dusty mineral-botrytis character in the nose lead to a honeyed, sultry, but dense and compact palate. The finishes here combines a formidably tactile sense of chalky minerality with honeyed, peachy richness. Ultimately marginally less expressive than the “regular” Brand, Boxler thinks this “K” illustrates the effect of vine roots penetrating the more friable portions of granite and into the limestone beneath. Certainly this needs several years in the cellar and should evolve fascinatingly over a decade. The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185