The Boxler 2005 Pinot Gris Brand Selection de Grains Nobles – from the Steinglitz – announces itself with a veritable fanfare of high-toned citrus oils, honeyed botrytis, peach preserves, and pungent spices. Glossy and viscous on the palate, its wonderfully pure, honeyed richness and peach preserve character balanced by zesty lemon and grapefruit citricity, this finishes strongly with superbly layering of honey, fruit preserves, caramel, fresh citrus, zest, and spices.The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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