Harvested the same day and in the same (Dudenstein) parcel as the “D, but from slightly down-slope in heavier soil, Jean Boxler’s 2004 Riesling Sommerberg Vendange Tardive Cuvee Zacharie (named for his son) smells with striking intensity of peach, lemon oil, honey and wood smoke. Peach, lemon cream and honey inform a glycerin-rich, subtly smoky, obviously botrytis-inflected palate with tactile, faintly sizzling brown spiciness, which persists tenaciously in the finish. (Boxler says the berries for this were all violet in color.) It too should be a 10-12 year keeper, but will I suspect never have exhibit refinement of its “D” counterpart.The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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