Albert Boxler Sommerberg E Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru, France

艾伯特伯克斯勒酒莊索麥貝格園E號(hào)雷司令白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2456

From 41 year old vines in the the upper part of the Eckberg, which has the coolest micro climate and the stoniest soils, the 2013 Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg E opens with lemon, lime and herbal aromas on the nose, and reveals a very restrained and flinty character. Racy, stony, piquant and almost greenish in its phenolic fruit character, this is a lean and mineral Riesling for terroir maniacs. If you prefer your Riesling more lush and fruity, you should take another one; if you like it austerely firm, this could be your choice. I am curious to know how this wine will age over the next 10 or 15 years. I suppose it will always be the more leaner and austere style.

Apricot, apricot kernel, lemon zest, narcissus, and wood smoke rise from the glass of 2004 Riesling Sommerberg E. Oily in texture, dramatically dense and stone-saturated on the palate, yet at the same time preserving some of the primary fruit, verve, and sheer refreshment exhibited by the “regular” 2004 Sommerberg, along with a honeyed richness, this penetrates with apricot, smoky, pungent citrus zest, juicy lemon and tangerine. Vivid stoniness, subtle fruit pit bitterness, and an oily bitter cling in the finish are perfectly complimented by the persistence of honey and juicy citricity.The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185