Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz Vieilles Vignes

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The 1997 Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz Vieilles Vignes possesses mouth-watering aromas of spice-laced lychee nuts, rose water, and cherries that are followed by a decadent core of tropical fruits, raspberries, and perfume. This blatantly ostentatious wine is oily-textured, fat, thick, and immensely flavorful. It should be consumed over the next 7 years.Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.

The 1995 Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz Vieilles Vignes may ultimately turn out better than the 1995 Furstentum, but it is less evolved, representing a more restrained yet still powerful style of Gewurztraminer. The wine possesses terrific richness and body, all of which is held in place by a tight corset. It has crisper acidity, as well as a more mineral-dominated character. The rose petal, lychee nut, exotic incense and grapefruit character of Gewurztraminer is also well-displayed. The wine's texture should open to reveal considerable intensity. It is a big, dry Gewurztraminer for drinking over the next decade.Bott-Geyl has become one of Alsace's most fashionable young wine producers. Three consistent characteristics of these wines are 1) purity and concentration, 2) multi-layered textures - the result of extended lees contact for 10-12 months, and 3) faithful interpretation of each varietal's characteristics. The wines reviewed in this segment performed exceptionally well, and, for their quality, are reasonably-priced. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949.

The 1994 Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz Vieilles Vignes was made from yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare (about 1/2 ton per acre). Pure, rich, and full-bodied, with an unctuous texture and gobs of extract, this intense, in-your-face Gewurztraminer is akin to eating liquefied roses intermingled with honeyed pineapple. Given its power, richness, and balance, it should drink well for 12-15+ years. The 1994 offerings look to be some of the most exciting wines to emerge from Alsace. Bott-Geyl's low profile and insider reputation translate into reasonable prices .... for now.Twenty-eight-year old Jean-Christophe is earning considerable accolades from the French wine press for this estate's change in direction. Given the high prices fetched by the truly great wines of Alsace, readers should note that Bott-Geyl's prices have not risen as high as the quality level mandates.European Cellars is located at 121 West 27th Street, Suite 1103, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567

Bott-Geyl's two 1993 Gewurztraminers are both knock-outs. The more remarkable of the two is the Sonnenglanz Vieilles Vignes. A textbook nose of lychee nuts, roses, and honeyed cherries and pineapples is a knock-out. This huge wine displays masses of concentrated, rich fruit buttressed by decent acidity, superb purity, full body, and a wonderfully long, crisp finish. It should drink well for a decade.Now that the young Jean-Christophe Bott-Geyl has begun to take more risks in producing his wines (harvesting later, bottling with minimal clarification), the quality of the wines of Domaine Bott-Geyl, situated in the Alsatian village of Beblenheim, has soared. This is an impressive group of dry Alsatian white wines.A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers. For availability information, Vezan's fax in Paris is 33.1.42.55.42.93.