Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendanges Tardives, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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Loads of spiced apricots are found in the aromatics of the 2000 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendanges Tardives. Light to medium-bodied and juicy, this intense wine is jam-packed with roses, juniper berries, cloves, mangoes, cherries, and lychee nuts. Powerful, balanced, and boisterous, it is a superb wine to serve with foie gras. Projected maturity: 2004-2018. The youthful Jean-Christophe Bott, this winery's winemaker and director, believes 2000 "is not an exceptional vintage, yet is outstanding. The last extraordinary year we had was 1990. That being said, the 2000s all have beautiful richness of fruit and some have excellent acidity."Importer: European Cellars, Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93

Readers who crave gaudy Gewurztraminers will flip for the 1997 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vendange Tardive. Its peony, rose water, and honeysuckle aromatics are followed by an immense mouthful of apricots, cherries, mangoes, mint, red currants, honey, and perfume. This full-bodied, hugely powerful wine is thickly-textured yet fresh and well-proportioned. It is a mind-bogglingly expressive effort, crafted in a take-no-prisoners style. Drink it over the next decade. Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.