Hunold's 2007 Pinot Gris smells of fresh lime, peach, and smoked meats, Lush, luscious, and faintly oily on the palate, it is less concentrated than the corresponding Riesling but actually makes a virtue out of this, in its loose, surprisingly refreshing way, finishing tinged with bitter-sweet orange and lime zest. Enjoy it over the next 12-18 months. Imported by Handpicked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347 9400.