Domaine Collotte Marsannay Vieilles Vignes

科洛特酒莊（馬沙內(nèi)村）老藤紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6044

Collotte's 2015 Marsannay Vieilles Vignes is excellent, opening in the glass to reveal aromas of ripe cherries, blackberries and plums that's currently quite fruit driven, revealing little in the way of the savory complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, supple and youthfully reserved, with a layered mid-palate, fine-grained but chalky tannins and the tangy, mouthwatering acids which are so characteristic of this domaine's 2015s. This is full of promise, and the raw materials are very fine, but I wouldn't be surprised to see it shut down further in the next six months, so be patient.

The 2010 Marsannay Cuvee Vieilles Vignes hovers on the palate with sweet red berries, mint and crushed flowers. This is a decidedly mid-weight, feminine Marsannay best enjoyed over the next few years. There is plenty of grace and charm here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. This is another gorgeous set of wines from Philippe Collotte. I admit I have an overall preference for the 2009s, especially the Marsannays, because of their radiance and pure seductiveness. The 2010s are much more linear in style and at times come across as a bit compact, which is the nature of the year.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2009 Marsannay Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is a tasty, accessible wine with a core of plummy red fruit, spices and flowers, not to mention a winsome personality. Clean mineral notes frame the elegant, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From an array of Marsannay and Couchey parcels with vines exceeding 40 years’ age, Collotte’s 2008 Marsannay Vieilles Vignes is vinified half in tank, and received this vintage only a single pigeage. Bottled in November (after finishing malo in high summer) it seems to have locked in some memory of its malic acid with an almost radish like bite and citrus oil pungency that invigorate but which some tasters might find extreme for a red. Abundance of cherry and red currant underlain by marrow and crushed stone is, however, a delightful combination in my book; and the wine’s mere 12.5% alcohol helps support a lithe, buoyant, refreshing personality that may calm down a bit in the course of a likely 4-6 year active life. Vinified for more structure than is his Vieilles Vignes cuvee – with repeated pigeage; and incorporating a portion of new wood – Collotte’s Champsalomon bottling ends up accentuating its tartness and sacrificing fruit. Philippe Collotte (for more about whom, and about his sites, consult issue 186) had a difficult 2008 vintage, with a couple of wines (including that from a small parcel of Gevrey handicapped by a big-berried clone) that I could not recommend.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From parcels with vines exceeding 40 years' age including Grasse-Tetes and other sites immediately west of the village, Collotte's 2006 Marsannay Vieilles Vignes is vinified half in tank, and includes a small portion of inter-planted Pinot Gris. Bitter-edged cassis mingles with an unusually spruce-like resinous note and suggestions of stone undergird this well-concentrated, firm Pinot that finishes with a trace of extraneous tannin. It won't make one forget the wonderful 2005, but this will serve well over the next 2-3 years. On the basis of a single Philippe Collotte 2005s (reviewed in issue 171) it was clear to me that his name belonged on the lengthening roster of Marsannay vintners seriously committed to quality, who as it happens are for the most part also proponents of organic viticulture and the rediscovery of early 20th century wine growing traditions. Collotte has built on the roughly eight acres around Marsannay that he inherited from his father, under whom the production was sold in barrel. The proprietors of the well-known Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, incidentally, are cousins with whom Collette shares a courtyard.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800