From vines in a promising, high-elevation spot next to Les Evocelles, Collotte's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, he says, suffers from the relatively large berries of whatever clone was planted there. Bright yet sweetly ripe cherry fruit is accented with charred wood, peat, and chalk, and the touch of astringency manages not to diminish a sense of juicy primary fruit satisfaction. I would plan to enjoy this over the coming 3-4 years. On the basis of a single Philippe Collotte 2005s (reviewed in issue 171) it was clear to me that his name belonged on the lengthening roster of Marsannay vintners seriously committed to quality, who as it happens are for the most part also proponents of organic viticulture and the rediscovery of early 20th century wine growing traditions. Collotte has built on the roughly eight acres around Marsannay that he inherited from his father, under whom the production was sold in barrel. The proprietors of the well-known Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, incidentally, are cousins with whom Collette shares a courtyard.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800