While a generic Fixin exhibited drying, seemingly hail-induced tannins and could not be recommended, Collotte's 2006 Fixin Les Crais de Chenes offered satisfyingly-concentrated, bitter-edged black fruits seasoned with invigoratingly pungent black pepper and bitterness of cherry pit. This is darkly-hued all the way through to its firm but persistent finish, and for now at least (as is so often the case from this appellation, regardless of vintage) rather austere. One might want to try waiting to revisit it for a few years, but personally I'd be inclined to pair it selectively over the next 3-5. On the basis of a single Philippe Collotte 2005s (reviewed in issue 171) it was clear to me that his name belonged on the lengthening roster of Marsannay vintners seriously committed to quality, who as it happens are for the most part also proponents of organic viticulture and the rediscovery of early 20th century wine growing traditions. Collotte has built on the roughly eight acres around Marsannay that he inherited from his father, under whom the production was sold in barrel. The proprietors of the well-known Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, incidentally, are cousins with whom Collette shares a courtyard.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800