High-toned cherry, kirsch distillate and cherry pit all typical of Gamay on Southern Beaujolais’s chalk-clay soils mark the nose of Brun’s 2008 Beaujolais L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes. A pure, bright, refreshing palate suffused with suggestions of chalk and salt and with its cyanic bitterness invigoratingly woven into its carpet of bright fruit, this finishes with riveting purity and rapier intensity, if not complexity. This will be worth following for at least 2-3 years.The 2005 – which I tasted again side by side the 2008 – is superb now. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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