Jean Paul Brun Morgon

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3461

Brun 2010 年的 Morgon 由采摘自該產(chǎn)區(qū)內(nèi)高海拔地區(qū) Grand Cras 的葡萄釀制而成。該酒有一半是在較舊的桶中進(jìn)行熟成的，散發(fā)著黑色覆盆子的果香，并夾雜著紫羅蘭、玫瑰果、肉豆蔻及香菜的香氣，還滿溢著煙熏肉及牛骨髓的味道。這款酷似 Syrah 的 Beaujolais 入口后較為清瘦和緊實(shí)，但余味中的果香、肉味及香料味卻極為持久。短時(shí)間內(nèi)此酒就會(huì)變得更豐滿，3 至 4 年后就會(huì)成為一款上好佳釀。

From the high-altitude Grand Cras section of its appellation (though that is not mentioned on the label), Brun's 2009 Morgon is alluringly scented with violet, gentian, roasted game, and a veritable basketful of black raspberries. Managing to seem both substantial and polished yet also refreshing and invigorating, its profusion of mineral salt, meat stock, and - this literally - fine-grained tannin make for fascination and inevitable versatility at table, and an excellent value that should be worth following for a half dozen years. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

Brun’s 2008 Morgon offers a classic nose of its appellation that is half meat and game, and half ripe fruits. A savory sense of salted meat juices accompanies red raspberry, cherry and rhubarb onto a firm palate, and this finishes with exuberant tart fruit and persistent savor. I would not be afraid to hold some for at least 2-3 years. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191