Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Cremant de Bourgogne Extra Brut, Burgundy, France

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The distinctively delicious NV Cremant de Bourgogne Extra Brut – a blend of Chardonnay from 2006, 2007, and 2008 – brims with tangerine, pineapple and lime. Exuberantly aromatic and vividly and lusciously citric, it is mouth-filling yet delicate, and finishes with a salt-tinged, saliva-inducing and invigorating savor. Although there is no lot designation on the label and I hesitate to review a non-vintage cuvee under those circumstances, this is so delicious it would be a shame not to give an account, and I would simply make sure that the wine has not been too long in the bottle before purchasing. I tasted the initial, late November disgorgement of this particular, virtually zero-dosage cuvee; the corresponding Brut was far less exuberant or clear.Pierre Chermette – for more about whom, consult my report in issue 184 – picked his crus from September 7-15 and his vines in the South of Beaujolais the week following, managing to keep alcohols below 13.5%.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800