Domaine Dublere Puligny-Montrachet, Cote de Beaune, France

都柏萊酒莊（普里尼-蒙哈榭村）白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：2112

Pethel’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet – which comes from the Suis les Puits sector – smells of Normandy cider, ripe peach, and pungently bitter-sweet iris and buddleia perfume. Subtly silken in feel and exceptionally rich for a village-level wine, its hints of peach kernel and chalk, fresh lime and grapefruit with their zests lend counterpoint, invigoration, and refreshment. This is one of those 2007s that make me think of Riesling. Piquant nuttiness emerges as this lusciously, purely-fruited, brightly citric wine takes on air, and it finishes strikingly fleet of foot. I expect this will continue to give enormous pleasure for half a dozen or more years, although a track record has yet to be established for it at this address. North Carolinian Blair Pethel – whose adventures in Burgundy I briefly summarized in issue 180 – did not start harvesting whites until well into the second week of September (granted, he has modest acreage) and finished by picking his Corton Charlemagne on September 17, though it seemed to surprise him to hear me call that “l(fā)ate.” All of his whites were bottled in March, 2009. Among the illustrations of Pethel’s quality-consciousness – besides what's obvious in the glass! – is his selection of two different tonneliers each year to supply his barrels (around one third new annually), as he gradually narrows the field and decides with whom to work on a regular basis in future. “I haven’t repeated yet,” he says, revealing his determined spirit of controlled experimentation, “but after this year 2009, I’m going to make a choice.” For a note on Pethel’s extraordinary 2007 Chablis Preuses, readers are urged to consult my report on Chablis elsewhere in this issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70; also imported by Pas Mal Selections, New York, NY; tel. (201) 567 2028 and Schneider’s of Capital Hill, Washington, DC tel. (202) 543 9300

Pethel’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet exists because he had to contract for it in order to get access to fruit for a premier cru, and anyone who cannot locate or afford his wine from the latter will not walk away dissatisfied. This is a village wine of deep savor, with nutty, chalky, and saline dimensions; a rich texture; and a clear, pure finish. I suspect (despite the absence of any track record) that it will drink nicely for at least 4-5 years. After many years spent visiting Burgundy, North Carolina-born Blair Pethel became convinced of his calling as a vintner while working the harvest there in 1999 on a sabbatical from his career as a political journalist in Washington, DC. Five years later, he purchased his first vineyards and began Domaine Dublere. If his story sounds impossibly starry-eyed, a taste of what is in Pethel’s barrels will correct that impression. Working with small but prestigious holdings and selected suppliers of fruit from old vines, he is already achieving wines of startling finesse and clarity of flavor, in both white and red. Pethel harvested a week before the official ban de vendange and even then, he remarks, “I had to sort like a maniac. We had sixteen people on two sorting trays in 2006,” thanks to having friends who are self-proclaimed wine freaks inspired or crazy enough to volunteer. “My business plan is based on grand- and premier cru,” says Pethel without any tone of arrogance “so I have to build slowly.” Importer: Schneider’s of Capital Hill, Washington, DC tel. (202) 543 9300