The 2011 Volnay 1er Cru Brouillards has a relatively simple nose for a premier cru, but that said it is clean and delineated with ripe strawberry and raspberry scents interlaced with subtle dark chocolate and undergrowth that become more accentuated with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with what feels like excessive extraction. Here, the refinement on the nose does not appear to be translated and the finish feels rather smudged and warm. There is potential for an attractive Volnay here, but perhaps not with this vintage. Drink now-2018.
The wines from Maison/Domaine Jessiaume were tasted from unsolicited samples sent to my home. I must confess that this was a new name to me. The domaine is located in the village of Santenay and was founded in 1850 with vineyard holdings in Santenay, Volnay and Auxey-Duresses, plus part of the Cents-Vignes climat in Beaune. They branched out into the negociant business in 2008. Five generations of the Jessiaume family have managed the domaine, which is presently owned by former Rangers F.C. chairman Sir David Murray (whose vinous passion began in the 1980s) and his son Keith Murray. The winemaking is in the hands of siblings Marc and Pascal Jessiaume, as well as Marc’s son Jean-Baptiste, who won best young winemaker at last year’s Hospice de Beaune auction. As well as their philosophy of low yields and organic viticulture, apparently they like to spin a bit of Mozart while the wines mature in barrel. This was generally a good set of wines that were thoughtfully crafted, though interspersed with these were one or two cuvees that did not make the grade, which is nothing to be ashamed of. The two grand crus, Griotte-Chambertin and Corton-Rognet 2011 are well worth seeking out, even more so, a superb little Santenay Les Gravieres and an Auxey-Duresses Ecusseaux white that both punch above their weight. I have a feeling that this is a producer that has more to offer in the future and I look forward to tasting subsequent vintages.
Importer: USA Wine West, Portland, ME; tel. (207) 772-2074
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