Domaine Les Aphillanthes Le Cros, Cotes du Rhone Villages, France

阿菲蘭塞斯酒莊克羅斯干紅葡萄酒

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The 2010 Cotes du Rhone Le Cros (100% Syrah) is a strong example of this often maligned varietal in the southern Rhone. A dense purple color is followed by scents of blackberries, acacia flowers and licorice offered in a deep, full-bodied style. Still primary in its aromas and flavors, it tastes more like a barrel sample than a bottled wine. One of the estate's few wines that is aged in small oak barrels (in this case for 12 months), it will benefit from 1-2 more years of bottle age and should keep for a decade. In 1999, I discovered one of the finest estates in the southern Rhone, the Domaine Les Aphillanthes owned by Daniel Boulle. His oenologist is none other than Philippe Cambie and his commitment to quality is evidenced by the fact that he refused to bottle any 2008s. Following that troublesome year, Boulle has produced some impressive 2009s and 2010s. This is a certified organically managed vineyard with practices increasingly moving toward biodynamic.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Equally impressive although completely different in style is the 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Cros. Made from 100% Syrah aged in demi-muids, this full-bodied wine proves that Syrah from the south can possess complexity as well as freshness (two characteristics Syrahs from the sunny Southern Rhone often lack). A dense purple color is followed by aromas of blackberries, licorice, camphor, and incense, a deep, full-bodied mouthfeel, silky tannins, and a terrific finish. Consume it over the next 5-7 years. I have been following this estate for a decade and except for a few hiccups in 2002 and 2003, it has consistently turned out fine wines. Moreover, since Philippe Cambie was brought in as the consulting oenologist, it has become even more reliable.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Coatesville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 486-6452

The 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Les Cros (100% Syrah) reveals complex notes of creme de cassis, road tar, gamey meat, licorice, and flowers. In the mouth, the wine is pure fruit, with loads of glycerin, sweet tannin, and adequate acidity. While not a classic example of Provence, it is a very successful, mono-cepage offering. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. As I have written in the past, this biodynamically farmed estate is a treasure-trove of excellent as well as value-priced wines. Proprietor Daniel Boulle offers a multitude of cuvees, and his 2007s seem to hit all the sweet spots on the palate.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The only one in the line-up that is somewhat international in style is the 100% Syrah cuvee, the 2006 Cotes du Rhone Les Cros, which also sees time in small barriques. This wine is deep, has the inkiest color, a chewy, espresso roast, blackberry nose, but not the complexity and Provencal personality of the other wines from proprietor Daniel Boulle.Proprietor Daniel Boulle has a large estate in Travaillon (not far from Gigondas) of approximately 135 acres, all biodynamically farmed, with yields very low. My first exposure to him was his brilliant 1999s, followed by several good vintages, but then hard times followed with 2002 and especially 2003. He has bounced back very strongly with a brilliant line-up in 2006, no doubt thanks to the consulting advice of the brilliant Philippe Cambie.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The dark-colored 2004 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cuvee du Cros reveals lovely black currant, sweet cherry, licorice, and smoky notes, medium to full body, loads of flavor, and sweet, silky tannin. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800