Domaine Loew Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten, Alsace Grand Cru, France

勒夫伯明頓雷司令干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2941

From his most famous site, Loew’s 2009 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten is uncompromisingly dry at a mere three grams residual sugar and almost impenetrably dense in its impression of stoniness and sheer extract. Citrus and pit fruits really packing their pips and pits, and a striking smokiness hangs over the entire proceedings. But for now, at least – even if it is temporarily especially closed – this lacks the sense of dynamic or enticement that rendered the corresponding Ostenberg memorable, or the aromatic intrigue of the Suessenberg. It is one to revisit short term and then perhaps in another several years, and in principle, it ought to be worth following for more than a decade. Etienne Loew (for more about whom, consult my report in issue 188) began harvesting in mid-September, 2009 – on account of rapidly rising sugars, as he familiarly explained – and finished already October 7, coincidentally, the day on which had begun picking in 2008. The resulting 2009s display acidity, cut, and mineral character that you won’t find in many places from this vintage – although, tellingly, you will amid the trocken Rieslings of the southern Pfalz from fifty or so miles north of Westhalten. Unfortunately, like many of those German cousins to which I just alluded, the 2009 vintage Loewen Rieslings were quite tight and in most instances downright austere when I tasted them. Having as mentioned begun harvesting in 2008 on October 7, Loew says he then quickly called a halt to the proceedings for one week because his Riesling in particular was simply not ripe enough. But he claims that the difference after mid-October was dramatic. As was also the case when I visited Loew in November, 2008, he had – in striking contrast to most of his fellow Alsace vignerons – sold out many wines of his vintage-before-last (in this case, 2008) to the point where not even a bottle could be found of several. Furthermore, regrettably, press of time on what was the last day of my November trip precluded my tasting the substantial array of nobly sweet Loew 2008s and a huge array from 2009, who’s like I had not anticipated. (Yet more regrettable is the fact that Loew’s wines remain unavailable in the U.S.)No current U.S. importer

The chalk and smokiness found in the corresponding 2009 reprises in Loew’s 2008 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten, but accompanied by mouth-watering salinity and shrimp shell reduction, as well as with its sense of tightness and some of its austerity alleviated by refreshing lemon and red raspberry tinged with the invigorating piquancy of their seeds. This really carries in the back of one’s palate, projecting the sort of strength of personality and potential for more than a decade’s aging that I associate with the Altenberg site. Etienne Loew (for more about whom, consult my report in issue 188) began harvesting in mid-September, 2009 – on account of rapidly rising sugars, as he familiarly explained – and finished already October 7, coincidentally, the day on which had begun picking in 2008. The resulting 2009s display acidity, cut, and mineral character that you won’t find in many places from this vintage – although, tellingly, you will amid the trocken Rieslings of the southern Pfalz from fifty or so miles north of Westhalten. Unfortunately, like many of those German cousins to which I just alluded, the 2009 vintage Loewen Rieslings were quite tight and in most instances downright austere when I tasted them. Having as mentioned begun harvesting in 2008 on October 7, Loew says he then quickly called a halt to the proceedings for one week because his Riesling in particular was simply not ripe enough. But he claims that the difference after mid-October was dramatic. As was also the case when I visited Loew in November, 2008, he had – in striking contrast to most of his fellow Alsace vignerons – sold out many wines of his vintage-before-last (in this case, 2008) to the point where not even a bottle could be found of several. Furthermore, regrettably, press of time on what was the last day of my November trip precluded my tasting the substantial array of nobly sweet Loew 2008s and a huge array from 2009, who’s like I had not anticipated. (Yet more regrettable is the fact that Loew’s wines remain unavailable in the U.S.)No current U.S. importer

Loew’s rendition of 2007 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten represents as fine a young wine as I have ever tasted from this exceptional site, known to me over the years through domaines Frederic Mochel and Roland Schmitt. A mesmerizing complex nose of iris, narcissus, chamomile, white peach, green tea, and chalk dust ushers in a correspondingly complex palate that seems suffused as well with fresh grapefruit and lime, and delivers textural richness at the same time as lift, clarity, and refreshment. The finish here represents a super-saturation of citrus, liquid florality, and vivid chalkiness. I expect this to reward up to two decades of cellaring. Etienne Loew farms the well-known Altenberg de Bergbieten, and other distinctive but less well-known sites not far west of Strasbourg. When I first tasted his range close to a decade ago, low yields, high ripeness, and Loew’s ambitious quality-consciousness were evident, but the sheer superficial gloss and sweetness of many wines put me off somewhat. Whether or not I misjudged or over-reacted then, the quality I found when I finally took time to visit this domaine is often downright exciting, even if I still consider the levels of residual sugar in some wines superfluous. With one exception (a white Pinot cuvee I did not taste) all of Loew’s wines are raised entirely in tanks, of which many are sized to accommodate small lots. Word of the quality he delivers is not new within France, and by the time his 2007s were offered and I had a chance to taste them, Loew’s 2006s were (save for a monumental S.G.N.) completely sold out, and only a few available for me to taste.No current U.S. importer