Domaine Loew Riesling Suessenberg, Alsace, France

勒夫蘇世堡雷司令干白葡萄酒

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From a terraced, oolithic puddingstone-rich vineyard next to the grand cru-rated Engelgarten, Loew’s 2009 Riesling Suessenberg was the first-picked of his 2009s as this site is a real heat-trap. It is also an even more severe, tight wine than the rest of those in this collection, its fresh lemon tinged with lemon pip, huckleberry, and smoky black tea. Evocations of iris and generally bittersweet floral notes offer allure as this opens to the air, and it finishes almost implacably, with smoky, bitter point and citric invigoration. Set it aside for a few years and then follow it at least until age ten. Etienne Loew (for more about whom, consult my report in issue 188) began harvesting in mid-September, 2009 – on account of rapidly rising sugars, as he familiarly explained – and finished already October 7, coincidentally, the day on which had begun picking in 2008. The resulting 2009s display acidity, cut, and mineral character that you won’t find in many places from this vintage – although, tellingly, you will amid the trocken Rieslings of the southern Pfalz from fifty or so miles north of Westhalten. Unfortunately, like many of those German cousins to which I just alluded, the 2009 vintage Loewen Rieslings were quite tight and in most instances downright austere when I tasted them. Having as mentioned begun harvesting in 2008 on October 7, Loew says he then quickly called a halt to the proceedings for one week because his Riesling in particular was simply not ripe enough. But he claims that the difference after mid-October was dramatic. As was also the case when I visited Loew in November, 2008, he had – in striking contrast to most of his fellow Alsace vignerons – sold out many wines of his vintage-before-last (in this case, 2008) to the point where not even a bottle could be found of several. Furthermore, regrettably, press of time on what was the last day of my November trip precluded my tasting the substantial array of nobly sweet Loew 2008s and a huge array from 2009, who’s like I had not anticipated. (Yet more regrettable is the fact that Loew’s wines remain unavailable in the U.S.)No current U.S. importer

Blueberry and huckleberry; lemon and lime; gentian and sage inform a vivacious though faintly oily and palpably extract-rich Loew’s 2008 Riesling Suessenberg, their bitter elements serving for invigoration without blocking the flow of juicy primary fruit in this wine’s finish, while an undertone of wet stone grips throughout. Etienne Loew (for more about whom, consult my report in issue 188) began harvesting in mid-September, 2009 – on account of rapidly rising sugars, as he familiarly explained – and finished already October 7, coincidentally, the day on which had begun picking in 2008. The resulting 2009s display acidity, cut, and mineral character that you won’t find in many places from this vintage – although, tellingly, you will amid the trocken Rieslings of the southern Pfalz from fifty or so miles north of Westhalten. Unfortunately, like many of those German cousins to which I just alluded, the 2009 vintage Loewen Rieslings were quite tight and in most instances downright austere when I tasted them. Having as mentioned begun harvesting in 2008 on October 7, Loew says he then quickly called a halt to the proceedings for one week because his Riesling in particular was simply not ripe enough. But he claims that the difference after mid-October was dramatic. As was also the case when I visited Loew in November, 2008, he had – in striking contrast to most of his fellow Alsace vignerons – sold out many wines of his vintage-before-last (in this case, 2008) to the point where not even a bottle could be found of several. Furthermore, regrettably, press of time on what was the last day of my November trip precluded my tasting the substantial array of nobly sweet Loew 2008s and a huge array from 2009, who’s like I had not anticipated. (Yet more regrettable is the fact that Loew’s wines remain unavailable in the U.S.)No current U.S. importer

From steep, amphitheatric, pebbly oolithic limestone terraces in Scharrachbergheim, Loew’s 2007 Riesling Suessenberg offers a greenhouse-like aromatic profusion of things leafy and flowering; a juicy yet richly-textured palate with white peach, raw almond, and musky and faintly sharp notes of narcissus and cress; and a finish of energetic, saliva-inducing lift and refreshment as well as fascinating mineral nuances. This should be well worth following for more than a decade. Etienne Loew farms the well-known Altenberg de Bergbieten, and other distinctive but less well-known sites not far west of Strasbourg. When I first tasted his range close to a decade ago, low yields, high ripeness, and Loew’s ambitious quality-consciousness were evident, but the sheer superficial gloss and sweetness of many wines put me off somewhat. Whether or not I misjudged or over-reacted then, the quality I found when I finally took time to visit this domaine is often downright exciting, even if I still consider the levels of residual sugar in some wines superfluous. With one exception (a white Pinot cuvee I did not taste) all of Loew’s wines are raised entirely in tanks, of which many are sized to accommodate small lots. Word of the quality he delivers is not new within France, and by the time his 2007s were offered and I had a chance to taste them, Loew’s 2006s were (save for a monumental S.G.N.) completely sold out, and only a few available for me to taste.No current U.S. importer

Loew’s 2006 Riesling Suessenberg smells of distilled purple plum and toasted almond; offers unusual vivacity and energy on the palate and above all a strikingly shimmering sense mineral and pit fruit interchange for its vintage; and finishes with a very slight suggestion of sweetness, seemingly as much on account of sheer ripeness of flavor and of glycerin as from residual sugar. Etienne Loew farms the well-known Altenberg de Bergbieten, and other distinctive but less well-known sites not far west of Strasbourg. When I first tasted his range close to a decade ago, low yields, high ripeness, and Loew’s ambitious quality-consciousness were evident, but the sheer superficial gloss and sweetness of many wines put me off somewhat. Whether or not I misjudged or over-reacted then, the quality I found when I finally took time to visit this domaine is often downright exciting, even if I still consider the levels of residual sugar in some wines superfluous. With one exception (a white Pinot cuvee I did not taste) all of Loew’s wines are raised entirely in tanks, of which many are sized to accommodate small lots. Word of the quality he delivers is not new within France, and by the time his 2007s were offered and I had a chance to taste them, Loew’s 2006s were (save for a monumental S.G.N.) completely sold out, and only a few available for me to taste.No current U.S. importer