Loew’s 2006 Gewurztraminer Ostenberg offers aromas of litchi and pineapple; soothing, creamy richness; sweet reinforcement of its ripe fruit flavors; yet also a welcome refreshment by no means to be taken for granted in this variety, especially not in this vintage. I would however plan on enjoying this within the next half a dozen years, meaning that only those seeking – or at least accepting – sweetness need apply. Etienne Loew farms the well-known Altenberg de Bergbieten, and other distinctive but less well-known sites not far west of Strasbourg. When I first tasted his range close to a decade ago, low yields, high ripeness, and Loew’s ambitious quality-consciousness were evident, but the sheer superficial gloss and sweetness of many wines put me off somewhat. Whether or not I misjudged or over-reacted then, the quality I found when I finally took time to visit this domaine is often downright exciting, even if I still consider the levels of residual sugar in some wines superfluous. With one exception (a white Pinot cuvee I did not taste) all of Loew’s wines are raised entirely in tanks, of which many are sized to accommodate small lots. Word of the quality he delivers is not new within France, and by the time his 2007s were offered and I had a chance to taste them, Loew’s 2006s were (save for a monumental S.G.N.) completely sold out, and only a few available for me to taste.No current U.S. importer
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