While Boillot's smoky, carnal village Pommard and Beaune Epenotes were a bit awkwardly astringent and restrained in fruit, his 2006 Volnay (from tank just before bottling) is fascinating. Aromas of moss, fresh blackberry, and mushrooms follow onto a firm, somewhat severely tannic but invigoratingly tart palate. Suggestions of walnut and fruit pit add an intense but intriguing piquancy, and its finish – while it may strike some tasters as a bit too rustic or bitter – is impressively tenacious and multi-faceted. This will be fascinating to revisit sometime in 2010 to take a better measure of its success and potential. Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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