Candied lime zest and pink grapefruit mark the nose of Tempe’s 2005 Pinot Gris Zellenberg. Honeyed and rich in the mouth but with persistently zesty citricity adding vigor and vivacity, it finishes with brightness and penetration, and merely discreet sweetness. Here is a case where botrytis – in concentrating the acids – seems to have focused as well as subtly ennobled the wine, lending credence to Tempe “I love botrytis” refrain. Several more overtly botrytized and vendange tardive wines of 2005 here were quite promising, but simply too embryonic and influenced by yeast and CO2 from cask to yet properly assess. I found no group of wines I tasted this year in Alsace more challenging to assess than those of vinous adventurer Marc Tempe, whom some critics call an iconoclast and others a reactionary. He bottled his first wines in 1995, and has been working biodynamically for a decade. These wines ferment longer (without cultured yeast additions – Tempe’s aim is to “work as naturally as possible”) and reside in fuder or barriques longer (generally 2-3 years) than any others I know of in Alsace today. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place, although Tempe doesn’t force it, and as he hastens to point out, he works at yield and ripeness levels that have in recent years proved pretty inhospitable to malic acid! Tempe likes botrytis for the complexity it adds even in dry wines. Add to all of the above considerations a penchant for minimal if any doses of sulfur and you often have wines that – while in some sense “slow moving” – are not easy targets to capture in a momentary tasting note. I have therefore only published notes or scores on wines whose personalities I felt capable of grasping on the occasion of my visit, which naturally also meant wines far enough along in fermentation than were many of his 2005s.Importer: Vintage 59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218.
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