The 2003 Gewurztraminer Mambourg displays a remarkably intense, tactile spiciness from botrytis, as well as near hyper-concentration of dried fruits and brown spices and an intensely honeyed, spicy, chalky finish. Amazingly in light of the vintage is the degree of cut and clarity this maintains, leading one to ponder how many growers across Western Europe, by panicking and separated young wines of vintage 2003 from their lees in fear they were already too fat, might have made exactly the wrong move. There is ample finishing refreshment and chalky minerality here to go along with the fat and super-ripeness. The sweetness is well-buffered without the alcohol intruding. I found no group of wines I tasted this year in Alsace more challenging to assess than those of vinous adventurer Marc Tempe, whom some critics call an iconoclast and others a reactionary. He bottled his first wines in 1995, and has been working biodynamically for a decade. These wines ferment longer (without cultured yeast additions – Tempe’s aim is to “work as naturally as possible”) and reside in fuder or barriques longer (generally 2-3 years) than any others I know of in Alsace today. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place, although Tempe doesn’t force it, and as he hastens to point out, he works at yield and ripeness levels that have in recent years proved pretty inhospitable to malic acid! Tempe likes botrytis for the complexity it adds even in dry wines. Add to all of the above considerations a penchant for minimal if any doses of sulfur and you often have wines that – while in some sense “slow moving” – are not easy targets to capture in a momentary tasting note. I have therefore only published notes or scores on wines whose personalities I felt capable of grasping on the occasion of my visit, which naturally also meant wines far enough along in fermentation than were many of his 2005s.Importer: Vintage 59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218.
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