Domaine Ostertag Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendanges Tardives, Alsace, France

安德烈酒莊弗朗海斯瓊瑤漿晚收甜白葡萄酒

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Candied citrus peel, glazed apricot, rose petal, and smoky black tea in the nose of Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive lead into a gentle, glycerin-rich palate whose sweetness seems to have been excessively accentuated by low acidity, and perhaps also relatively low dry extract. Overripe musk melon, apricot preserves, and orange marmalade in the finish want for some sense of cut or counterpoint; and even though this is under 13% in alcohol – not to mention already more than sweet enough – I detect a hint of heat. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Sage and bergamot as if from a Muscat or Scheurebe join caraway, celeriac, rose petal, and litchi of unmistakable varietal origin in the effusive nose of Ostertag’s 2008 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive, and a ravishing herbal and floral inner-mouth profusion accompanies quince preserves, celery root, overripe musk melon, and litchi on a buttery palate, leading to an unabashedly sweet finish at least as gaudy as was this wine’s nose. At 11% alcohol, it shares with the typical Ostertag Gewurztraminer a welcome sense of levity, and there is at least a modicum of refreshment to be derived from the persistent finish. Whether the sweetness will better-integrate or become cloying with time I hesitate to predict, although certainly this wine will remain fresh for well more than a decade.Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The Ostertag 2007 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive smells of mirabelle preserves, litchi, chrysanthemum, and celery seed, then comes to the palate creamy and enormously sweet, in a way that no doubt covers up what might otherwise be more nuanced flavors. That said, there is a welcome sense of primary sap and an obviously unusually high retention of acidity for this grape, and I can imagine this being a terrific keeper and eventually becoming more complex (as well as at least a bit less superficially sweet) – perhaps in 20 years? Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name “Epfig” will now merely be coded with the capital letter “E” because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of “village level” names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524