Domaine Ostertag Gewurztraminer Vignoble d'E, Alsace, France

安德烈酒莊E園瓊瑤漿干白葡萄酒

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A classic, pungent nose of bacon fat, celeriac, and rose petal, greets me from the glass of Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Vignoble d’E, leading to a glossy, opulent, unabashedly sweet palate that finishes broadly and softly though – like its 2008 counterpart – quite buoyantly given its having retained sugar at the expense of alcohol. I would drink it solo over the next 3-4 years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Vignoble d’E (“E” for “Epfig,”) smells like a butcher shop, with saline smoked meat and pate character following all the way across a glossy, oily palate and into a finish of slightly awkward sweetness. (Though when one returns to this after tasting the corresponding 2009, one is happily of its relative juiciness.) Classic litchi accompanies the carnal character throughout, as does an intriguing moss-like note. One can’t accuse this Gewurztraminer of heaviness, given the potential alcohol it sacrificed to its high residual sugar. Still, I find the overall effect a bit awkward and wonder what I would drink it with – which I would in any case do over the next 3-4 years. (If I could afford foie gras I would move up the quality scale to pick my sweet Gewurztraminer.) Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Ostertag’s 2007 Gewurztraminer Vignoble d’E (“E” for “Epfig,”) smells of rose water, pork rinds, caraway, and celery seed. Decidedly sweet, it nevertheless delivers some sense of refreshment, and its smoky, porcine side is not subsumed under its load of residual sugar, while banana and a classic note of litchi are reinforced by it. I realize that Ostertag – who consistently cultivates sweetness in his Gewurztraminer – is convinced of the usefulness of such a wine with a variety of dishes, but I have never been able to share that view, despite attempts to convince myself. Fifty grams of residual sugar in a wine like this strikes me as more or less the equivalent of 100 grams in a high acid Riesling, and I wouldn’t try to match such a Riesling with anything other than cheese or dessert for its first 20 years. I haven’t tasted the 2006 version of this cuvee. Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name “Epfig” will now merely be coded with the capital letter “E” because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of “village level” names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524