Domaine Sigalas Mavrotragano, Santorini, Greece

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The 2008 Mavrotragano is a rare red from Sigalas, one of the best white wine producers in Greece. The winery says there are a mere 20 acres of this grape planted in the world. Aged for 18 months in oak, this has an elegant mid-palate, a well controlled oak overlay on opening and a considerable hit of power on the end. Nuanced with a dark chocolate note on the finish, it winds up feeling like a graceful wine that retains an occasional sharp edge, with bursts of acidity and tannin popping up. Not particularly impressed on opening, I found myself warming to this and becoming more and more interested in it. For those interested in experimenting, Sigalas' neighbor, Argyros, also makes an interesting Mavrotragano, reviewed in Issue 193. They are both very well done examples of what this grape can do; I'd give the edge to this. Approachable now, it will likely be better in a year or two. Drink now-2019. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

A surprise from the Assyrtiko-dominant island of Santorini, this delicious red is made from an endangered island variety. Rich aromas of cherry, violet and clove are followed by a balanced array of juicy red and black berry and complex warming spice flavors. The tannins are firm but the wine is smooth in the mouth. Pair with meat and rich cheeses. A find.——S.K.(3/1/2012)—— 90