Domaine Treloar Cotes du Roussillon Motus, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

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Treloar's 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Motus takes its name from the expression Motus et bouche cousue! ("Mum's the word!"), in conjunction with the fact that - let's just say, it contains a lot of Mourvedre. "And besides," says Hesford, "the C.I.V.A. buys this wine from me to use in tastings as an example of Cotes du Roussillon" ? so they must know, and anyway it would be a shame to disappoint them. Deep, ripe purple plum and blueberry are seasoned with cepage-typical bay leaf. Undertones of caramel and resin from the oak are as yet but partly integrated in the finish of this cuvee which, while not especially complex, is seamless in terms of its sheer ripeness, and admirably persistent. It might well benefit from a year or two more in bottle. Like so many modern wine growers, English-born Jonathan Hesford - trained as a physicist - admits to having "just started out as a lover of wine" and then gotten carried-away. He and his wife Rachel Treloar left her native New Zealand in 2005 after acquiring a run-down old winery in Trouillas (not far south of Perpignan) with diverse parcels of various cepages. The attraction of Roussillon was - as it has been for so many "outsiders" - the availability of proven terroir and old vines at a reasonable price; and "what impressed me," says Hesford about the Les Aspres sector, "is that there's a lot of (water-retentive) clay in the soil, so you get a bit more freshness into the wine. For the kinds of wine I wanted to make, I thought this was more appropriate than, say, the Agly Valley." The kinds of wine Hesford makes are really quite diverse, not to mention evolving, and promising.There is at present no U.S. importer.