Domaine Yvon Clerget Caillerets, Volnay 1er Cru, France

伊萬·克萊杰酒莊凱樂瑞（沃爾奈一級園）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：2806

I have been unmoved by recent efforts from Yvon Clerget. The 1991s were hard and thin, the 1992s dilute, and the 1993s exhibit frightening levels of the vintage's hardness, astringent tannin, and physiologically immature fruit characteristics. They are all cleanly made, with moderate quantities of tart red fruits, medium body, and ferociously hard tannin in the finish. I do not understand why wines such as these have elicited so much enthusiasm elsewhere, as they are stubborn, backward, and unlikely to ever open. (This wine was not individually reviewed.) Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 319-8768

The 1990 Volnay-Caillerets displays significant tannin. In addition to an attractive red fruit nose intertwined with aromas of oak and earth, there is fine ripeness, a medium-bodied feel in the mouth, and considerable hardness in the finish. In all fairness to Clerget, the 1990s had just been bottled when I tasted them. But even allowing for that, I felt his 1990s were relatively compact, medium-weight wines, with adequate color, but they were often too woody and tannic, especially in view of their moderate levels of extraction. While the recent bottling no doubt suppressed some charm, the lack of richness as well as the relative degree of tannic harshness gives me cause for concern. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY