Simple scents and flavors of baked, caramelized peach dominate the Schlumberger 2007 Pinot Gris Spiegel, one of those wines from this address that displays a distinctly lactic overtone. Peach kernel piquancy and a vague sense of stony minerality push back against the residual sugar so that the finishing sweetness is not excessive, but despite admirable sheer persistence, this finishes a bit vague and unfocused rather than clearly multifacetedly. I suspect it will be best drink over the next 2-3 years. Among the largest estates in Alsace and the largest holder of grand cru acreage, Domaines Schlumberger have been prominent in international markets for years, and were long known best for their nobly sweet wines, a specialty of this house during a time when V.T. and S.G.N. bottlings were not remotely as common as they are today. I have found the style somewhat ponderous, opaque, and indistinct, but reports that things had lightened up and clarified under the direction of siblings Severine and Thomas Schlumberger were correct. I could not recommend all of the modest cross-section of samples I received, but some were excellent. Despite what the Schlumbergers report as low yields, several wines I tasted wanted for concentration and personality, some were still a bit diffuse, and the Rieslings among them struck me as surprisingly developed considering their youthful chronological ages. These wines rather routinely undergo malo-lactic transformation, and in a couple of instances exhibited an overly lactic tone.Importer: Maisons, Marques, & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286 2000
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