Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Domini Veneti, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Italy

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The 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domìni Veneti is a pleasant and fruit-forward wine that delivers bight fruit nuances backed by lighter tones of exotic spice, dried tobacco and mesquite wood. The wine feels streamlined and tight on the close, but the heat of the vintage has contributed to the simplicity and immediacy of the fruit flavors.

From the cooperative’s most successful sub-brand, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti is a convincing expression of Valpolicella’s top red wine. This is a structured, if not overtly tannic wine, packed tight with dark fruit, blackberry preserves, black olive, barbecue smoke and moist chewing tobacco. You still get a sense of youthfulness here, despite the appassimento process. Drink 2015-2022. Cooperative wineries are often seen as the ugly ducklings of Italian wine. But the dynamic Cantina Valpolicella Negrar with 220 members who farm a total of 600 hectares is maturing into a graceful swan. The co-op is very active when it comes to experimentation with sustainable farming methods and innovative winemaking. I was absolutely captivated by the “Espressioni” set of wines – all Amarone from the 2005 vintage – that captures the essence of five townships: San Pietro in Cariano, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, Marano di Valpolicella and Negrar. This set of wines offers a fascinating glimpse into the individual winemaking regions in the Valpolicella Classico zone. The “Espressoni” (Amarones Castelrotto, Mazzurega, Monte, San Rocco and Villa) make a strong argument for creating delineated subzones based on municipality like you find in other premier growing areas such as Barolo and Chianti Classico. Importer: Domini Veneti USA, www.cantinanegrar.it

The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Domìni Veneti Monte is a chewy and sweet rendition with loads of ripe fruit, front and center. Instead of complexity, the wine offers density and depth with thick layers of dark fruit and spice. From a vineyard in the Sant'Ambrogio subzone, this Amarone packs a powerful punch. It should hold nicely for ten years.