Dr. Burklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Pfalz, Germany

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A pungent nose of wax and furniture polish leads to flavors of hard candy and honey. As this melts in the mouth, the flavors turn to grapefruit, orange cream and lemon candy. Bracing acidity keeps the aftertaste lively. Best from 2012 through 2048. 55 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add

Distilled herbal essences, peanut brittle, and nose-tweaking, smoky pungency of botrytis launch their assault from a glass of Burklin-Wolf’s 2007 Forster Pechstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, and any thoughts that your palate might serve as a successful secondary line of defense are dispelled by a wave of honey allied to an electric current of Eiswein-like, lemony acidity. This is slick in texture and quite viscous, but any sense of richness or harmony will only develop after considerable bottle age. You couldn’t ask for more sheer energy in a glass, and I am sure this won’t burn out anytime in the next half century. The biodynamic Burklin-Wolf team, headed by owner Bettina Burklin and cellar master Fritz Knorr continues to excel, and few if any German estates have so successfully fulfilled or cashed in on the ideals that so many of them shared, of focusing on dry wine and on terroir distinctions. The fulfillment lies in consistently well-balanced legally trocken wines and dramatically distinctive single-site bottlings (with an internal ranking of quality rather than use of Pradikat terms or designations as “Grosses Gewachs”). As for cashing in, the prices the top crus here have been able to maintain speak for themselves, although the high quality of Burklin-Wolf’s entire line renders many of these wines excellent values. (I missed out on this year’s Altenburg or Langenmorgen, incidentally, because not a single bottle could be found left behind at the winery last September.) The range of wines readily available in the U.S. is expected to expand as part of a new import and marketing arrangement. Outbreaks of botrytis in certain sites already in late September caused some alarm, but with startling rapidity it dried into nobility so that the estate ended up with a clutch of extraordinary sweet wines featuring almost freakishly high acidity, all of them picked before any others of this year’s Rieslings.Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22