The 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule A.P.#31 offers a unique and compelling variation on that great site. The nose is enticed by vividly fresh strawberry and kiwi, accented by green herbs and brown spices. Past the lips, this is an exceptionally pure, refined, creamy-textured Mosel Riesling that simply saturates the palate with fresh strawberry, pear and apricot nectar, richly floral honey, and subtle spice, while evincing no obvious citrus or stone manifestations and certainly no hard edges. The long finish is subtly honeyed and suggestively creamy, and the overall impression one of exceptionally concentrated but botrytis-free berries. For an auction lot of this quality, incidentally, its U.S. retail price looks incredibly reasonable. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255
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