Dr Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Bohlig Riesling Beerenauslese

點擊次數(shù)：2345

Burklin’s 2007 Wachenheimer Bohlig Riesling Beerenauslese mingles brown-spice and vanilla-tinged persimmon and cherry preserves, marzipan, rowan, and fresh lime. With a vivid sense of fruit skin chew and blazingly penetrating yet not at all harsh acidity, this wine’s high residual sugar doesn’t stand a chance of getting out of hand. The sense of lift and lightness of touch here – as well as sheer primary fruit juiciness – is extraordinary for a wine such high must weight. It should be fascinating to see how this evolves – stunningly, I feel sure – but the pace may well be glacial and the wine is sure to retain freshness for at least 30 years. The biodynamic Burklin-Wolf team, headed by owner Bettina Burklin and cellar master Fritz Knorr continues to excel, and few if any German estates have so successfully fulfilled or cashed in on the ideals that so many of them shared, of focusing on dry wine and on terroir distinctions. The fulfillment lies in consistently well-balanced legally trocken wines and dramatically distinctive single-site bottlings (with an internal ranking of quality rather than use of Pradikat terms or designations as “Grosses Gewachs”). As for cashing in, the prices the top crus here have been able to maintain speak for themselves, although the high quality of Burklin-Wolf’s entire line renders many of these wines excellent values. (I missed out on this year’s Altenburg or Langenmorgen, incidentally, because not a single bottle could be found left behind at the winery last September.) The range of wines readily available in the U.S. is expected to expand as part of a new import and marketing arrangement. Outbreaks of botrytis in certain sites already in late September caused some alarm, but with startling rapidity it dried into nobility so that the estate ended up with a clutch of extraordinary sweet wines featuring almost freakishly high acidity, all of them picked before any others of this year’s Rieslings.Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22