Weingut Salomon-Undhof Kogl Riesling, Kremstal, Austria

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Intriguing aromas of saffron and yellow lentil in the nose of the Undhof 2010 Riesling Kogl – which incorporates the Salomon’s entire crop from that site this vintage, and was slightly de-acidified as must – could as well have come from a Gruner Veltliner, though the present wine’s lemony brightness disabuses one of any such inference. There is a salty and somehow crystalline sense of mineral interaction and palate cling to this refreshing and buoyant saffron-tinged mineral-vegetable soup that I find thoroughly delightful. I would anticipate half a dozen years of versatility but still be inclined to drink lots of this in its youth. Berthold Salomon suffered dramatic 2010 crop-losses with Riesling, but only a small diminution of Gruner Veltliner, “and for me,” he adds, “this is definitely a Gruner Veltliner year.” Between selective de-acidification of musts and allowing some lots to undergo malo-lactic transformation, the high acids of the vintage managed to be quite well-tamed at this address. (Details on some of this estate’s large acreage can be found scattered throughout my previous reports.)Various importers, including Fruit of the Vines Inc, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392 5640, Artisan Growers & Producers, San Francisco CA; tel. (415) 264 4866, and Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MI; tel. (314) 961 8996

An attractive, fresh-faced wine, bubbling brightly and easily. With light white fruits and laced with acidity, it brings out a racy, nervy character, looking to food as a complement. ——R.V.(3/1/2011)—— 89

A rounded style of wine, its texture full of warm fruits, pear, apricot and some lime juice to give a fresh edge. It is full of flavor, with apples and cream flavors, layered with crisp, tight acidity, but all within the context of a full, dense wine. Glass stopper.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 89