Weingut Triebaumer Blaufrankisch Qualitatswein Trocken, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria

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Ernst Triebaumer’s basic 2006 Blaufrankisch is – almost predictably given the way this vintage has gone – the best I can recall, and an excellent value that can be relished anytime over the next 4-5 years. With a pure but not superficially sweet intensity of juicy, fresh, bitter-edged black fruits and an invigorating alliance of salinity and subtle smokiness, its finish also suggests a not unpleasant hint of austerity in its paving of humus and crushed stone. Treibaumer favors old vines, sparse bunches, and mica-schist rich soils for this bottling (which is raised in fuder), believing geological underpinnings of that sort most conducive to “elegance and lift.” Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700

Prepped in tank and ready for bottling, Triebaumer’s 2005 Blaufrankisch, which formerly resided in large ovals, offers beautiful blackberry and black raspberry aromas, a fresh and juicy yet substantial palate presence, and subtle finishing shadings of white pepper. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Aged for 8 months in large barrels, this wine relies on its simple, juicy fruit. It has red fruit flavors, soft, fresh and ripe.——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 85