Triebaumer’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Oberer Wald reflects old vines in a high, breezy, south-facing site with considerable coral and fossilized mussels in its upper reaches and quite heavy clay at the bottom, always harvested together on the same day (early October in 2006) and vinified as one. Tart Maine blueberries and fresh blackberries inform the nose and palate, with contrasting notes of resin and subtle caramel from 50% new wood, and mineral chalkiness and salinity. Superbly palate-staining, this combines vigor and freshness reminiscent of this year’s basic Blaufrankisch bottling with the seamless texture and fine tannins of the Gmark. It should gain depth and prove fascinating for at least 8-10 years in bottle. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700