Weingut Triebaumer Ried Mariental Blaufrankisch, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria

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Last tasted after assemblage but before bottling, the 2006 Blaufrankisch Mariental – from a coral- and clay-rich elevation north of the village of Rust – represents the latest and one of the greatest in a series with which Treibaumer inaugurated the showcasing of pure Blaufranisch in Burgenland 21 vintages prior. Deep, dark, ripe-yet tart berries; humus, chalk, crushed stone, iodine, and salt dimensions of minerality; and a clear, refreshing, bitter-sweet, fruit pit-tinged, subtly medicinal finish, make for a striking combination of concentration with elegance. Rich yet without superficial sweetness; polished yet loaded with fine-grained tannin, this should prove worthy of cellaring for well more than a decade. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700

The 2005 Blaufrankisch Mariental smells of spinach, with bitter, fresh cassis and blackberry. Firm in feel, but with persistent fresh fruit juiciness and admirable purity, its finish – while spare – clings with subtly saline, chalky, and berry skin notes and suggests further interest may materialize after a year or two in bottle. But while successful in the context of its difficult vintage, this will not, I predict, be a Mariental for extended cellaring. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700

I was not able to taste Triebaumer’s top wine from 2004, but his 2003 Blaufrankisch Mariental shows the degree of brightness and complexity that was possible even in such a hot vintage. Fresh as well as jammy blackberry accented with pepper and cherry pit, and underlain by deep layers of earth and nut oils pour themselves into a strikingly long, salt- and smoke-tinged finish. There is no indication at present that its 14.5% alcohol will trip it up in future, and based on past successes, I would think 12-15 years would not be too long a time in the cellar for this Austrian cult wine.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The medium to dark ruby-colored 1997 Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental displays a lovely nose of spices and deep red fruits. Medium-bodied, chewy-textured, and well-structured, this is an intense, stony black fruit-flavored wine. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.