Etienne Sauzet La Truffiere, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, France

伊蒂安蘇塞酒莊特魯費(fèi)埃爾（普里尼-蒙哈榭一級(jí)園）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4167

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Truffières is much more expressive and ripe on the nose with yellow plum, jasmine and peach skin aromas. To be honest, I rather prefer the stricter aromatics on the Les Referts. The palate is full in the mouth with just a faint suggestion of tropical fruit on the entry, but then it tapers in and becomes more “Puligny-like” in its final third. This Truffières needs to make up its mind about what it wants to be, and at this nascent stage, it had not manifested the harmony of flow of its siblings.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Truffières captures the trademark tropical scents of the vintage: fresh pineapple, passion fruit and a hint of white peach, whilst neatly avoiding any sense of blowsiness or overpowering sensations. The palate is harmonious with a smooth texture, notes of toffee apple, lemon curd and walnut segueing into a finish that feels a little richer than the 2014 last year, but thankfully it maintains fine balance. Whilst the Puligny Hameau de Blagny seems a little more effortless, this remains a fine proposition.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Truffière has a very slight reductive note, touches of walnut and smoke coming through, later a mote of apricot blossom. The palate is well defined with a strong saline entry. There is good density here, a powerful Truffières with a lovely sharp citric twist animating the finish. Just two barrels produced this year but it is worth seeking long 'n hard for.

There are two barrels of the rarely seen 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru la Truffière. In fact, it has never been reviewed by this publication and in any case, last year's was reduced to a single barrel because of hail. It comes from vines located on the boundary with Champ Gain. It has a more sophisticated and complex nose compared to the Folatieres, with lifted mineral scents. The palate is fresh and crisp, taut on the entry with steely acidity, correct and a little austere, but with plenty of length. Fine, if just missing the "X-factor" of say, the Combettes or Les Referts.