Ferreros’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a massive, chunky wine packed with dark fruit, grilled herbs, earthiness and tobacco. The mouth searing tannins take over on the mid-palate and dominate the wine’s balance through to the finish. There seems to be quite a bit of potential, especially if the tannins melt away in bottle. Still, I wish the bouquet were cleaner and the elements of rusticity were a bit more subdued. If Ferrero can tame some of the wilder elements, quality could go up considerably in future vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the highlight among these new releases from Ferrero. Both bottles of the 2005 Brunello I tasted were problematic.Importers: Vini Veris, Inc., Palm Harbor, FL; tel. (727) 781-3591; K & L Wine Merchants, Redwood City, CA; tel. (650) 364-8544; Bacchanal Wine Imports, Inc., Port Chester, NY; tel. (914) 481-5171; International Cellars, Vienna, VA; tel. (703) 918-6333