The 2009 Nebbiolo d’Alba Marne Brune shows good up-front freshness and a textured personality with plenty of varietal naunce. Some of the intensity trails off on the mid-palate and finish, but this is nevertheless a tasty Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. These are some of the best wines I have tasted from Fontanafredda. The entry-level wines are quite a bit better than the supermarket-quality level that has characterized recent vintages. The dark, opaque color, jammy fruit and overdone oak in the Baroli appear to be things of the past. The Baroli are aged one year in oak and a second year in cask, but Oenologist Danilo Drocco has lowered the percentage of new barrels in the first year dramatically, which is allowing more Nebbiolo character to come through.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642
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