Georges Duboeuf Domaine de la Chaponne, Morgon, France

杜寶夫酒莊查封尼園紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3286

While a touch of roughness and greenness detracted slightly from the berries and game of Duboeuf’s “flower label” 2010 Morgon and 2010 Morgon Belles Grives, the 2010 Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne – grown just outside the hamlet of Morgon itself – mingles ripe dark cherry and peony in the nose, and displays a supple, juicy palate tinged in its finish with coriander and cherry pit. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

From the high western edge of its appellation, just outside the old village of Morgon, the 2009 Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne (tasted from tank) mingles fresh black fruits; kirsch; toasted, salted nuts; high-toned herbal essences; and a haunting hint of rowan in an effusive aromatic display, backed by a mouth-filling and delightfully buoyant palate impression. Here is a 2009 that belies whatever alcohol it may have (and I didn’t check in this instance). Cherry pit, salt, and chewy berry skin combine to help render the finish lip-smacking. I would not be surprised if this terrific value held up well for 3-4 years, though I cannot speak from direct experience with older examples. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Scented with mint and lavender as well as with intimations of the blue and black fruits that follow on the palate, the 2008 Morgon Domaine de la Chapone is another candidate for alter-ego to the well-known Jean Descombes’ Morgon. A firm feel and surprisingly stony underpinnings, when combined with the bitter edge of herbs and fruit skin, give this a somewhat austere impression (especially by Duboeuf house standards), but it is quite impressive in its way – a suggestion of savory sirloin juices develops in the open glass – and should gain from some time in bottle. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including some – from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has long-standing commercial relationships – that might not show up in the U.S. market. The so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant’s signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf’s Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 Beaujolais-Villages – at 30,000 cases, representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais – was a bit green and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf’s flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I tasted it.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463