Three inexpensive 1995 vin de pays Chardonnays should instill a sense of fear into some of our domestic producers who are ripping off consumers with one after another watery products. The 1995 Chardonnay Domaine Mont Gaillard offers up aromas of peaches, apricots, and flowers. Fresh and medium-bodied, with excellent ripeness, and a medium-bodied texture, this excellent Chardonnay is a superb bargain. It should be drunk over the next year.Duboeuf, undoubtedly the boss of Beaujolais, is turning out an amazing array of terrific wine bargains for less than $10. His personal taste tends to favor crisp, light-bodied, dry whites, in contrast to American tastes, which desire more flavor and intensity. Duboeuf has begun to insist on riper fruit, and push the limit of extraction to produce more intense white wines. That is apparent in the 6 inexpensive white wine offerings reviewed in this segment.Importers: William Deutsch, Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221 and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (708) 679-0121
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