Familie Gesellmann 'Siglos' Pinot Noir, Mittelburgenland, Austria

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The Gesellmann 2006 Pinot Noir Siglos reflects a relatively cool, chalk-clay location in Deutschkreuz, with vines up to 40 years of age, and was picked in the last days of September. It also reflects its 18 months in small new barrels in a slightly rough, splintery spot in the finish of an otherwise impressively polished wine. Interestingly, Gesellmann favors 300 liter rather than traditional 225 liter barriques as he thinks the latter offer too large a wood surface to volume ratio. A soothing, ripe (at 13.3% alcohol) Pinot, it tastes as though it had been macerated on dried plums, blueberries and citrus zest, and seasoned with sea salt. A bit of the pepper generally associated with Blaufrankisch in these soils is also present here. I would not hesitate to follow it for 3-5 years in bottle. This wine is an impressive exhibit in the extensive case to be made for Pinot Noir’s future in Austria. Albert Gesellmann – much influenced by the time he spent in California and South Africa in the mid-1990s – makes no apologies for wanting to produce powerful red wines. I have found a few of those that receive accolades within Austria somewhat overwrought and superficially sweet and oaky, although there is no question that the underlying material is concentrated. The Gesellmanns were among Burgenland’s pioneers with Cabernet and Merlot – some of their Bordelaise vines having recently reached a 25th birthday – but in recent years interest here as elsewhere in Mittelburgenland has been focused more on the traditional Blaufrankisch, on blends with Zweigelt and St. Laurent, and on Pinot Noir. The Gesellmanns are not among those with experimental plots of Syrah, although to taste some of their wines, you might believe otherwise.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.