Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Saint-Bris Moury, Burgundy, France

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Goisots’ 2008 Saint-Bris Moury – whose Portlandian origins contrast with the Kimmeridgian Exogyra Virgula – smells of apple blossom, apple pit, gooseberry, and a hint of boxwood. Lemon pip bitterness, a radish-like bite, and a stone-licking sense of minerality lend this firmly-textured, uncompromisingly intense Sauvignon a certain austerity as well as invigoration. Guilhem Goisot opines that this cuvee is bound by its terroir to blossom later in the bottle than its Kimmeridgian sibling and certainly I expect it to be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040