Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Biaumont

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Bottled– like their other single-vineyard selections – in February, the Goisots’ 2008 Cotes d’Auxerre Biaumont smells of iris; pink grapefruit; chalk dust; and salt spray. Hints of lanolin and vanilla emerge, courtesy of its modest component of new wood. Unremittingly chalky and saline, it is a bit leaner as well as marginally less refined, or complex than the corresponding Gueule de Loup. Hints of cherry pit and pistachio lend a bitter-sweet cast to a tenacious if slightly stern finish. This should merit at least 5-6 years of attention, becoming more generous and harmonious along the way. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040

From 30- to 40-year-old vines in fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil, the Goisots’ 2007 Cotes d’Auxerre Biaumont picks up on both the fusil element and overt chalkiness of their regular cuvee, with well-integrated notes of lanolin and resin from the barrel. An overt sense of high-extract is allied to a subtly oil texture, but at the same time a contrasting, juicy refreshment – here in the form of tangerine and yellow plum, tinged by subtle bitterness of their pips and pits, and of toasted hickory – carries this through to a long, lip-smacking, chalk- and salt-crusted finish. A touch more austere and less striking than the 2006, this ought nonetheless to reward at least 5-7 years bottle aging. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

From 30- to 40-year-old vines in fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil, the 2006 Cotes d’Auxerre Biaumont smells of fresh lemon, iris, and rich chicken stock; offers a caressing creaminess of texture yet at the same time more brightness and grip than its sibling Gueule de Loup and alluring persistent florality; and finishes penetratingly with refined texture, and superb refreshment, tinged with chalk, lemon pip and cherry pit bitterness. I suspect that it will be worth following for at least 5-7 years. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29