Gunderloch Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

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The Gunderloch 2011 Niersteiner Pettental Riesling Grosses Gewachs delivers a fascinatingly complex nose of Keemun tea, mint, citrus zests, and wet stone, leading to a dense, firm, if glycerol-laced palate more austere as well as grainier in texture than that of the corresponding village-level bottling, and as such, for now, marginally less flattering. But the flavors here also have an edge in complexity, intensity, and grip, with pit- and pip-inflected peach and orange exhibiting a sense of smoky, stony, alkaline suffusion. This ought to merit attention for at least half a dozen years. I kept company in their tasting room a precious share of Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach’s 2011 harvest in the form of two small stainless tanks and a tiny glass balloon whose contents will probably eventually inform both a T.B.A. (incorporating the latter lot, picked-out near the beginning of harvest) and a B.A. (which would incorporate some of the rest, harvested – as so often at this address – very late). There is no gold capsule Auslese this year, and Fritz Hasselbach’s explanation – “the quality of our Auslese has gotten better and the main harvest so selective” as to obviate two tiers – suggests that this may be a policy choice going forward. The harvest here began already in the third week of September and continued through October. The resultant wines are as a group noticeably low in acid but manage to adapt themselves and display distinctive virtues. Most of the Gunderloch 2011s were bottled in April, the exception being their Grosse Gewachse, in mid-summer.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463