Hecht & Bannier Saint-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

赫克班尼圣芝尼安干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4545

Tasted as a definitive blend although the actual assemblage would not take place for months and bottling not until mid-2012, Hecht & Bannier's 2010 Saint-Chinian represents a felicitous marriage of virtually all of their sources (which are far fewer for this appellation than for their Minervois) of dominant Syrah - on both schist and chalk-clay - with Grenache and small amounts of Mourvedre and Carignan. High-toned kirsch, framboise, and cassis distillates seem to shadow the ripe fresh berries from the nose all the way through a sappily-concentrated, subtly silken mid-palate to an effusively juicy, uplifting finish. Along the way, inflections of crushed stone, smoky black tea, resinous herbs, licorice, and juniper better contribute to a rivetingly dynamic interplay whose finish will leave your tongue fluttering and your salivary glands pumping overtime. I've noted on several occasions this talented team's ability to meet expectations set by the finest estates in each appellation with which they work, but in all fairness to the finest bottling growers in Saint-Chinian (whose numbers could use boosting), who makes any more complex or convincing wine from this appellation today than the wine I have in my glass? What's more, here's betting this will remain glorious for the better part of a decade, if not beyond. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier's - for more about whose remarkable partnership, consult my account in issue 183 - are living up to the challenge they set themselves, namely to render, as negociants of a unique hands-on labor-intensity, wines that can stand comparison with those of each respective appellations top estates. They continue to focus on the same four appellations (for an account of their Cotes du Roussillon cuvees as well as an inaugural Maury, see the report on Roussillon that appears in this issue), although several other projects have emerged, including an Appellation Languedoc bottling that serves not only as an intro-level wine but as an outlet for fruit that does not make the cut for their four other dry red wines. Remarkably, U.S. retail prices for these extraordinary values have remained virtually unchanged since they first appeared in our markets - except for the couple of instances where they have been lowered! (I won't repeatedly note and literally underline references to value in the notes that follow; if you compare them with my scores and the prevailing prices, you ought hardly to need help drawing the appropriate consequences, however jaw-dropping!) "Selection was an interesting but especially tough job in 2008," notes Gregory Hecht, "because there was a lot of mildew pressure for growers to deal with in a relatively cool year with only two real heat spikes." The results illustrate precisely the distinctive virtues of this vintage. "Two thousand nine is obvious in its generosity and power," opines Hecht, "whereas 2010 is more nicely-dressed and elegant, with a crisp edge." The down-side of the enormously promising and already irresistible youngest offspring at this address is that low yields - when combined with Hecht and Bannier's stringent principles of selection and grower-loyalty - meant that the total volume of wine available under their label had to suffer a significant dip.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

In keeping with the warm, stressful conditions of its vintage, Hecht & Bannier 2009 Saint-Chinian - due to be bottled this summer - favors Syrah from chalk-clay rather than schist sites. (Usually, more Syrah from Berlou goes into this blend; this year, it was diverted into the A.O.C. Languedoc bottling.) A chewy streak of tannin such as one won't usually encounter at this address manages fortunately to meet its match in sheer richness of dark cherry fruit, while undertones of dark chocolate, licorice, and toasted walnut add bittersweet depth that persists in a resonant, baritonal finish. Saline and alkaline mineral notes add interest and invigoration and for all of its richness and emphasis on low-tones, this evinces remarkable buoyancy, no doubt thanks in large part to its alcohol having been held to 13.4%. Look for at least 5-7 years of delight from this. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier's - for more about whose remarkable partnership, consult my account in issue 183 - are living up to the challenge they set themselves, namely to render, as negociants of a unique hands-on labor-intensity, wines that can stand comparison with those of each respective appellations top estates. They continue to focus on the same four appellations (for an account of their Cotes du Roussillon cuvees as well as an inaugural Maury, see the report on Roussillon that appears in this issue), although several other projects have emerged, including an Appellation Languedoc bottling that serves not only as an intro-level wine but as an outlet for fruit that does not make the cut for their four other dry red wines. Remarkably, U.S. retail prices for these extraordinary values have remained virtually unchanged since they first appeared in our markets - except for the couple of instances where they have been lowered! (I won't repeatedly note and literally underline references to value in the notes that follow; if you compare them with my scores and the prevailing prices, you ought hardly to need help drawing the appropriate consequences, however jaw-dropping!) "Selection was an interesting but especially tough job in 2008," notes Gregory Hecht, "because there was a lot of mildew pressure for growers to deal with in a relatively cool year with only two real heat spikes." The results illustrate precisely the distinctive virtues of this vintage. "Two thousand nine is obvious in its generosity and power," opines Hecht, "whereas 2010 is more nicely-dressed and elegant, with a crisp edge." The down-side of the enormously promising and already irresistible youngest offspring at this address is that low yields - when combined with Hecht and Bannier's stringent principles of selection and grower-loyalty - meant that the total volume of wine available under their label had to suffer a significant dip.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Speaking (as I was under "Minervois") of "Syrah-centrism," that grape also dominates Hecht & Bannier's 2008 Saint-Chinian, with support from Grenache and Mourvedre. This vintage is also dominated by fruit from schistic rather than chalk-clay vineyards. High-toned kirsch mingles with thyme, arbor vitae, and floral distillates on the nose. Bright, sappy cherry-dominated fruit picks up a vivid sense of crushed stone as well as persisting with smoky peatiness and resinous herbal oils through a gripping and exhilarating finish. (I must point out that tasted alongside, the finished 2007 - on which I reported with such enthusiasm in issue 183 - came off just holding the lower end of my earlier projections, being once again forcefully rich and smoky, but less fun to drink than this 2008.) Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier's - for more about whose remarkable partnership, consult my account in issue 183 - are living up to the challenge they set themselves, namely to render, as negociants of a unique hands-on labor-intensity, wines that can stand comparison with those of each respective appellations top estates. They continue to focus on the same four appellations (for an account of their Cotes du Roussillon cuvees as well as an inaugural Maury, see the report on Roussillon that appears in this issue), although several other projects have emerged, including an Appellation Languedoc bottling that serves not only as an intro-level wine but as an outlet for fruit that does not make the cut for their four other dry red wines. Remarkably, U.S. retail prices for these extraordinary values have remained virtually unchanged since they first appeared in our markets - except for the couple of instances where they have been lowered! (I won't repeatedly note and literally underline references to value in the notes that follow; if you compare them with my scores and the prevailing prices, you ought hardly to need help drawing the appropriate consequences, however jaw-dropping!) "Selection was an interesting but especially tough job in 2008," notes Gregory Hecht, "because there was a lot of mildew pressure for growers to deal with in a relatively cool year with only two real heat spikes." The results illustrate precisely the distinctive virtues of this vintage. "Two thousand nine is obvious in its generosity and power," opines Hecht, "whereas 2010 is more nicely-dressed and elegant, with a crisp edge." The down-side of the enormously promising and already irresistible youngest offspring at this address is that low yields - when combined with Hecht and Bannier's stringent principles of selection and grower-loyalty - meant that the total volume of wine available under their label had to suffer a significant dip.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The Hecht & Bannier 2007 Saint-Chinian comes from Syrah, Grenache, very little Mourvedre, and little or no Carignan “as far as we know,” they say, laughing, since old “Grenache” blocks are by no means certified. The fruit represents all three basic soils of the appellation: schist, chalk, and sandstone, and a portion of the wine never sees wood, in order to help maintain vivacity. Pungent iris and marigold and crushed stone mingle with black fruits in the nose. A palpably extract-rich palate is loaded with savory, saline, meaty, and spicy character, as well as the seeming suffusion of crushed stone so vividly projected by previous vintages of this blend. Like all of the best 2007s, this combines invigoratingly fresh fruit with depth and density. It’s hard to ask for more dynamic complexity in a Languedoc wine for the price of this amazing value. Look for it to perform well for 6-8 years. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s negociant partnership – entering its seventh year – is singularly quality-oriented, and their connections with growers and tireless tasting trips throughout the Languedoc and Roussillon (350-400 visits each year) are rewarding wine lovers wherever their limited production is sold. (Consult the Roussillon section of this report for their wines from that region.) Make no mistake: wines under the Hecht & Bannier label can compete with the very best being produced by individual estates in their respective appellations, making them among the world’s finest red wine values. (Prices have remained unchanged for three vintages.) The aim in selection of lots, as well as in elevage (much of which takes place in foudres or demi-muid), is to capture ripe fruit and rich textures while conserving fresh fruit vivacity and setting a standard of lift and elegance such as is possessed by only the best wines being grown today in the Languedoc and Roussillon. The partners (who met as students in Burgundy) will remain focused on just a few outstanding locations where a sufficient number of growers (typically 8-12 per appellation) practice low yields, hand-harvest, press impeccably, and will honor a handshake “contract.” At most, they suggest, a couple of additional appellations might one day be added to their line-up (which also includes a consistently delightful Syrah-based rose). As Hecht puts it, “for the protection of all parties, we intend to stay small,” both in total production per appellation and volume per grower. Meanwhile, in order to offer something less-expensive in higher-volume, a new cuvee has debuted this year – employing a new appellation that permits blending across both the Languedoc and Roussillon.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700