Weingut Hexamer Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Auslese, Nahe, Germany

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Hexamer’s 2006 Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Auslese – from a once-renowned but recently largely neglected site – loads the nose and palate with mint, peach preserves, and black currant; delivers creamy richness together with a tingling and invigorating amalgam of botrytis spice and pungent minerality; and finishes with opulence, yet delicacy and lift. This a bit dominated by its sheer sweetness today, but if you are patience, it should reward you at anywhere from 10-20 years’ bottle age. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300